Photo credit: Douglas Scott, The Outdoor Society
Winter in Yellowstone National Park is a magical experience that few will ever know. But careful planning is important to a successful visit in the snow.
The most important thing you need to know is that you can only enter the park at the North Entrance in Gardiner, Montana, from December 15 to March 15. From there, motorists can only drive as far south as Mammoth Hot Spring, then head east across the top of the park through Lamar Valley to Tower Junction. All other roads and entrances are closed to vehicle traffic in winter.
But that doesn’t mean you are limited to just the Mammoth Hot Spring and Lamar Valley. Snowcoaches take guests to Old Faithful, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and the geyser basins. Overnight guests can book stays at Mammoth Hot Spring Hotel or Old Faithful Snow Lodge. For the more adventurous, Mammoth Campground is open to campers on a first-come, first-served basis.
Services are limited in the park during the winter, so it’s important to fuel up in advance and pack plenty of food and water in case something goes wrong. Cell service is extremely limited, including texting. Be sure to download the National Park Service app and download any maps you’ll need before entering the park.
Yellowstone has great opportunities for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling. Bison, elk, coyotes, and cougars remain active throughout the season, so you should still carry bear spray and know how to use it. Be sure to start with the PARK’S WEBSITE as you plan your trip.
Douglas Scott, who typically just goes by “Scott”, is the owner and lead guide of The Outdoor Society, but many know him as “the guy with the bison tattoo” because that’s his Instagram handle. Yellowstone National Park and nearby Paradise Valley, Montana, are his stomping grounds, so we’ve invited him here to share his expertise about winter experiences in this gorgeous landscape.
What catches most people by surprise when visiting Yellowstone during the winter?
Many are surprised to find out how much there is to do in the region during the winter. While many come to the park for a wildlife watching tour, they quickly realize that one or two days usually isn’t long enough. Most people spend a day wildlife watching and another day sightseeing in the northern range of Yellowstone, then leave. That leaves no time to visit hot springs, go winter fishing, hike or snowshoe a trail, take a scenic drive, and so many more things.
A disappointing surprise is when people book a stay in West Yellowstone, Idaho, in the winter, expecting to reach Lamar Valley and other sights, only to find the West Entrance is closed for the season.
What is the most underrated thing about visiting Yellowstone in the winter?
While Yellowstone winters are well known for wildlife watching, the adventures that can be had on foot are extremely underrated. Few people venture beyond the paved roads in the winter, making the trails and groomed paths around the northern range a true delight. Most people who trek outdoors stick to one of four trails, leaving all the other paths nearly empty. Once you’re in the backcountry, the movements of wildlife are apparent, with their tracks crisscrossing through the snow across the landscape. I also love seeing hoarfrost glistening in the early morning sunlight, hearing coyotes and wolves howl in the morning and evening, and watching the wildlife move across the snow. These are the most underrated experiences.
What do you love the most about Yellowstone in the winter?
Winter in Yellowstone is an acquired taste. Not everyone loves the sub-zero temperatures, snowy landscapes, or frozen rivers. But I love it.
Wildlife watching in winter is amazing, as the ground is usually covered in deep snow, making it easier to spot animals. The steam from their breath will crystallize on the bison’s faces, wolves will hunt and feast in the valleys, otters play on the frozen creeks and rivers, and the entire region becomes a majestic winter wonderland. The waterfalls freeze and turn deep blue, contrasting perfectly against the white, while the rising steam from the geothermal features is visible from a long distance.
Despite temperatures well below zero, a sunny day in the depths of winter still brings warmth and invites adventure. Winter is also slower and quieter, rewarding those who seek peace in the tranquility of the wilderness.
What kind of winter tours do you lead?
I lead hiking and snowshoeing tours. My specialty is going beyond the boardwalks and well-trodden areas of the park, taking interested adventurers to spots that few see in the northern section in the winter. Whether we visit a suspension bridge, a viewpoint overlooking a hidden waterfall, or a canyon rim high above the Yellowstone River, my snowshoe tours get those wanting more than a car ride into the true wilds of Yellowstone.
What tips do you have for choosing a tour?
It’s best to know what level of activity you want. If your focus is wildlife watching, consider a driving tour with one of the companies that offer them. If you want a more intimate experience with what winter offers, look for tour companies like The Outdoor Society that focus on time on the trails.
Remember that Yellowstone is over 6,000 feet above sea level, so be prepared for the elevation. The winter temperatures are very cold, so always wear plenty of layers, even for car trips. I share a lot more tips for visiting the park on my weekly podcast, This Week in Yellowstone.
Is Paradise Valley worth a visit in winter, even if one isn’t planning a trip to Yellowstone?
Most definitely! Paradise Valley in winter offers fine dining, dipping in the hot springs, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing, wildlife watching, world-class fishing, and stunning views of the mountains and river. The region feels rustic and remote with little development, despite being only a few miles from Interstate 90 and the city of Livingston. I don’t offer tours in Paradise Valley, but my guidebook to trails in the region highlights many areas accessible in the winter.
What do winter visitors often overlook in Paradise Valley?
While I could talk about underrated and overlooked spots in and around Paradise Valley for hours on end, a few areas are worth mentioning to whet the appetite for further adventures in the area. For starters, Chico Hot Springs and Yellowstone Hot Springs are popular with locals, yet many tourists overlook them.
Mill Creek offers cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, as well as dog sledding when conditions are suitable. B-Bar Ranch in Tom Miner also offers cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.
For those who love to fish, check out fishing access spots at Mallards Rest, Dan Baileys, Carbella, and the world-class fishing at the privately run DePuy’s.
Some of the most scenic drives include Trail Creek, Old Yellowstone Trail North, Old Yellowstone Trail Road above Point of Rocks, Tom Miner Basin, and East River Road. Dailey Lake is another gem, providing access to a frozen lake with stunning views of the Absaroka Mountains and Emigrant Peak.
Good winter hiking spots include Hogsback, Yankee Jim Canyon, and, if the road conditions are good, Pine Creek Falls.
For winter entertainment, catch an indoor music concert at Pine Creek Lodge, get drinks at the historic Old Saloon in Emigrant, or make reservations for fine dining at Sage Lodge.
Where can people find you and your resources?
My podcast, This Week in Yellowstone, is available on all major podcast apps. A new episode is released every Thursday morning, helping visitors know what to expect and what to do in the coming week in Yellowstone National Park.
I’ve written two guidebooks for the region. One is for wildlife watching in Yellowstone National Park, and the other covers more than 50 hikes in the region. They are available on my website.
Those interested in a tour can either contact me directly via email at theoutdoorsociety@gmail.com, or through my website at Outdoor-Society.com.
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