Flagstaff to Page on US Route 89—black and white and red all over

Driving US Route 89 between Flagstaff and Page brings you into contact with three distinctively different landscapes: black volcanoes, multicolored desert hills and red cliffs.

At the southern end near Flagstaff is a volcanic area dominated by the San Francisco Peaks, the highest point in Arizona at over 12,000 feet. The peaks are surrounded by cinder cones and lava flows. The dominant color here is black—black lava and black cinders and the dark green of ponderosa pines. All that darkness is offset by red pine tree bark and patches of cinders in rusty red colors.

You can get close to one of the biggest of the volcanic formation by taking the loop road sixteen miles north of Flagstaff through Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument. Sunset Crater is the youngest volcano in the San Francisco Field erupting about 900 years ago. The road passes through the Bonita Lava Flow where magma oozed out at the base. The cone is 1,000 feet high and is crowned by red oxidized cinders that seem to glow at sunset and gave the peak its name.

 

Also on this loop road off US Route 89 is Wupatki National Monument where the ruins of prehistoric Indian dwellings are open to visitors. These ancient buildings were occupied for about 100 years shortly after the formation of Sunset Crater. The ash from the volcano made the land more fertile by absorbing moisture and preventing evaporation. By 1180 thousands of people were farming this region. Their multistory buildings are still standing today as a testament to their excellence as stone masons.

The middle part of US 89 between Page and Flagstaff passes through the Painted Desert on the Navajo Indian Reservation. Here you will marvel at the soft hills striped in white, red, brown and purple. It is hard to believe that this now dry land was once dominated by dinosaurs and giant trees as evidenced by logs of petrified wood. The highway reaches its low point at the Cameron Trading Post on the banks of the Little Colorado River.

Cameron was established in 1911 when the bridge across the Little Colorado was completed. Today it is a popular stop for travelers and includes a large gift shop, restaurant and lodge. Be sure to visit the gallery in a separate historic building where you will find examples of fine Indian arts and crafts, both historic and contemporary. Also, tucked away in the back of the gift shop are a couple of display cases of “pawn”. You will feel like you’ve found a hidden treasure when you spy a very nice piece of jewelry at a reasonable price.

Cameron is also the gateway town to the south rim of the Grand Canyon. Look for the intersection with Arizona Route 64 just south of town. It is a 30 minute drive to the east entrance of Grand Canyon National Park. Stop at one of the view points along the way to see the canyon of the Little Colorado River.

At the northern end, US 89 parallels the 800 foot high Echo Cliffs that gently guide you toward the Colorado River in Marble Canyon. Here the dominant colors are the red and white strata of petrified sand dunes.. At Bitter Springs, US 89 continues north and switchbacks up the cliff face to a broad, high desert plateau leading to Lake Powell, a blue expanse of water from the Colorado River backed up behind Glen Canyon Dam. Alternate US 89 turns west toward Marble Canyon and the Vermilion Cliffs. See the Guide to Driving US Route 89 and 89A for details of the two roads between Bitter Springs and Kanab, Utah.

At A Glance:
Distance: 135 miles

Driving Time: 2.5 hours

High Point: 7,300 feet at the entrance to Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument 16 miles north of Flagstaff

Low Point: 4,100 feet at the Little Colorado River at Cameron 52 miles north of Flagstaff/83 miles south of Page

Services:
Flagstaff: gas, food, lodging, camping
Cameron: gas, food, lodging
Cedar Ridge: gas, food
Page: gas, food, lodging, camping

Access To:
Kachina Peaks Wilderness
Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument
Wupatki National Monument
Strawberry Crater Wilderness
Grand Canyon National Park
Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

89 or 89A: That is the Question

Of all of the questions I am asked about traveling on US Route 89, one of the most frequent is about the two possible drives between Bitter Springs, Arizona and Kanab, Utah. Since both US 89 and 89A are about the same length and take the same time to drive, neither one has a clear advantage over the other. However, each road has unique features and possibilities for exploring this corner of the Colorado Plateau. I’ll describe what you can expect along each road so you can answer the question for yourself. For a map and more information, check out the road trip guides here Flagstaff to Page, here Page to Kanab and here Bitter Springs to Kanab.

 

 

Bitter Springs to Kanab on US 89A

US Route 89A is the original alignment of the highway when it came into existence along with the rest of the federal highway system in 1926. It became an alternative when 89 was rerouted to Page to facilitate the construction of Glen Canyon Dam on the Colorado River. From Bitter Springs it is 14 miles to the low point on this route at the crossing of the Colorado River in Marble Canyon. Navajo Bridge was completed in 1929 as the final connecting link in the border to border highway. A new vehicle bridge was built in 1992. Stop at the visitors’ center and take a walk out on the old bridge to view Marble Canyon and the Colorado River 470 feet below.

The road to Lee’s Ferry is on the west side of the river. River trips downstream through the Grand Canyon start here and some of the best trout fishing in Arizona is upstream toward Glen Canyon Dam. You can also visit Lonely Dell Ranch, the home of John D. Lee, now lovingly maintained by the Park Service.

For 28 miles through the House Rock Valley, 89A parallels the Vermillion Cliffs. California condors have been reintroduced to make their home here and can be seen along the cliffs and near Navajo Bridge. Stop at the Donimgues-Escalante Interpretive Site to learn about the history of Spanish exploration across the Colorado Plateau. At the west end of the valley, a dirt road goes north along Coyote Wash and eventually connects to US 89 in Utah.

Straight ahead is the Kaibab Plateau. For the next twelve miles the road climbs 2,500 feet to the top at Jacob Lake. From here, Arizona Route 67 runs south to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. This road is only open from the middle of May until the end of October depending on snow conditions. If you are traveling 89A in the off season, be sure to check ahead for current driving conditions.

From Jacob Lake, highway 89A descends the west side of the Kaibab Plateau to Fredonia. Pipe Springs National Monument is 13.5 miles west of Fredonia on highway 389. Continue on 89A for 7 miles to Kanab.

Bitter Springs to Kanab via Page on 89

From Bitter Springs, US 89 climbs 1,000 feet in 3 miles hugging the face of the Echo Cliffs through Antelope Pass onto the Kaibito Plateau. Near the top, there is a small parking area where Navajos set up tables to display and sell jewelry and other craft items.

The road slowly descends for 20 miles to Page. Three miles south of Page is short road on the west that leads to an overlook of the Colorado River at Horseshoe Bend. US 89 reaches its low point as it crosses the Colorado at Glen Canyon Dam. The visitors’ centers offers tours of the dam including descending inside the dam almost to river level to view the giant turbines that produce electricity for distant cities.

Views of Lake Powell and access to the lake at Wahweap are available along the highway to the west of Page. The road crosses the Paria River 29 miles from Page. A hike into the Narrows of the Paria is one of the highlights of this section of US 89. Check in at the BLM Ranger Station for a permit and for information on current weather conditions. Flash floods are common on the Paria in the summer rainy season, so proceed with caution.

Five miles west of the Paria is the intersection with House Rock Road. Take the road south to access the Coyote Buttes and eventually connect to US 89A. Permits are required to hike to the Wave and other spectacular rock features along this road and are available at the BLM Ranger Station.

US 89 continues west for 40 miles to Kanab.

What about recreational vehicles?
Several people who have asked this question have been driving larger RV’s and are concerned about steep grades. Be assured that both roads can be driven in larger vehicles. They are federal highways and conform to the national standards of construction. Since both roads connect Bryce Canyon, Zion and Grand Canyon National Parks, they are heavily traveled by tourists in all kinds of vehicles, especially in the summer months.

When we travel through this area on a round trip from our home near Tucson, we drive 89 in one direction and 89A the other. That way we can enjoy both roads and avoid having to choose one over the other. If you can only choose one, both are beautiful drives so you can’t go wrong either way.

Arizona Centennial Legacy Projects on US Route 89

On February 14, 2012, Arizona will celebrate its 100 years of statehood. Many events are being planned by the Arizona Centennial 2012 Foundation. The Arizona Historical Advisory Commission has designated over 130 official Centennial Legacy Projects including our US Route 89 project. The goal of these projects is not only to highlight the last 100 years of the state’s history but to also to leave a record for the future.

US Route 89 was the original north/south road connecting nearly all the major towns and cities of Arizona from its designation as a federal highway in 1926 until part of it was decommissioned in 1992. The main commercial street of the following towns was Route 89: Nogales, Tucson, Florence, Apache Junction, Mesa, Tempe, Phoenix, Glendale, Peoria, Wickenburg, Yarnell, Prescott, Ash Fork, Williams, Flagstaff and Page. Alternate Route 89 from Prescott to Flagstaff passed through Jerome, Clarkdale, Cottonwood and Sedona and is one of the most scenic drives in the state. US 89 could fairly be called the Main Street of Arizona.

Many of these towns have created Legacy Projects. Over the next few months we will be connecting with them to bring you more information about their activities. Here is a sampling of a few of the projects:

• Williams-Arizona State Railroad Museum being developed to depict the history of railroads in the state
• Tucson-Centennial Park with historic interpretive displays adjacent to Presidio San Augustin and the Tucson Museum of Art
• Peoria-Centennial Plaza
• Flagstaff-Centennial Walk, a section of the Urban Trail System with a mural along the walkway depicting 100 years of Flagstaff history
• Clarkdale-Copper Art Museum housed in the former Clarkdale High School built in 1928 will showcase unique copper art from around the world
• Jerome-the town library and the Historical Society will mount an exhibit showing the evolving culture of Jerome and historic use of important buildings

For an introduction to Centennial activities, view this interview on KAET’s Horizon with Karen Churchard, Director of the Centennial Commission, and Catherine May, Vice President of the Historic Advisory Council.

Here is a complete list of all of the Arizona Centennial Legacy Projects.

Getting the Most Out of a Visit to Saguaro National Park

The image that comes to mind with the word ‘desert’ is of a desolate, dry place of sand dunes and little else. When you visit Saguaro (pronounced “sah WAH row”) National Park you will enter a lush world filled with plants and animals that have evolved to live in a dry, hot climate. Observing these creatures and learning their survival strategies is the most fascinating part of touring this park.

The park is divided into two districts thirty miles apart on the east and west sides of Tucson, Arizona. If your time is limited, you should concentrate on one district. They both offer ample opportunities to explore. And there is much to see—58 kinds of reptiles and amphibians, 74 different mammal, and 187 types of birds living among over 610 species of plants. Of course the most spectacular of these is the parks namesake, the giant saguaro cactus.

Saguaros grow slowly and may take fifty years to reach six feet in height. They do not begin producing arms for another twenty-five or thirty years. A mature saguaro can grow to fifty feet and weigh eight tons or more. Saguaro tissue is 85% water which it absorbs through a very shallow root system that spreads out from the plant as far as it is tall. This strategy allows the saguaro to survive on limited and widely spaced periods of rain.

Saguaros begin to produce waxy, white flowers in mid-April, reaching the peak of bloom on Mother’s Day. Flowers open at night and stay open until the following afternoon to facilitate pollination by long-nosed bats, birds and insects. The flowers ripen into a sweet red fruit that contains 2,000 seeds. Over a lifetime, a single saguaro will produce 40 million seeds only one of which will survive to maturity to replace its parent.

There is almost always some cactus, shrub or wildflower in bloom but the show is dependent on the amount and timing of rain over the park. This year the spring bloom was sparse due to low rainfall and a late season freeze.

Rincon Mountain District

The larger of the two districts is on the east side of Tucson. The mountains are higher here with a greater diversity of lifezones. There are 128 miles of hiking trails and  six backcountry campsites for those seeking a true wilderness adventure.

Stop at the visitors center to view the exhibits and the informative slide show, A Home in the Desert, and pick up guide books. The eight-mile long Cactus Forest Scenic Loop features scenic vistas and pullouts where you can view the great variety of plants and animals that populate the park. Be sure to stop at the Desert Ecology Trail which offers an up close introduction to the Sonoran Desert. Interpretive signs along the quarter-mile trail detail the adaptations that allow plants and animals to thrive in this rugged environment.

My favorite spot for sunset viewing and photography is the Javelina picnic area. Take a short hike up toward Tanque Verde ridge. The hillside lights up with a golden glow as the sun sinks behind the distant mountains to the west. Saguaros and teddy bear chollas seem to glow with an inner light. Use a wide angle lens to capture the panoramic beauty and then switch to a telephoto to isolate details.

Tucson Mountain District

Begin a visit to the western half of Saguaro National Park at the Red Hills Visitors Center. Take the time to view the slide show called Voices of a Desert which describes the desert from the Native American perspective. There are also two short nature tails at the visitors center to introduce the habitat you are about to explore. Just down the road is the Desert Discovery Nature Trail which will familiarize you with the ecology of the Sonoran Desert.

For a closer look at the foothills of the Tucson Mountains, take the five-mile long Bajada Loop Drive. This unpaved road has a primitive feel to it although it can be easily navigated by passenger car. There are two picnic areas and a short overlook trail along the drive, all three of which are worth a stop. The Sus Picnic Area is surrounded by hills and and dense desert vegetation. Take a picnic lunch and relax for a while to soak in the beauty around you.

The Valley View Overlook Trail is less than a mile riundtrip, passing through two washes and ascending to a ridge where you have a view of the Avra Valley to the west of the park.

If you only have time for one stop, make it the Signal Hill Picnic Area, especially late in the afternoon. From the picnic area, a quarter of a mile trail will take you to a rocky hilltop where you will find dozens of ancient petroglyphs. These markings on the rocks where created over 800 years ago by ancestors of the Tohono O’odham people who still live in this area. Their true meaning has been lost to antiquity but it is fun to speculate on what was in the mind of their creators. Of particular note is the large spiral that may be an astronomical symbol to mark the passing of the seasons.

I have to admit that I usually skip visitors centers and paved nature trails when I visit a national park. I’m anxious to head out to more remote areas to photograph. However, when I recently spent the day in Saguaro National Park, I decided to check out all of the areas most popular with travelers. I’m glad I did. Reading the interpretive signs while actually seeing what was being explained give me a new understanding and appreciation of the desert ecosystem. So my final piece of advice is to take a few minutes to view the slide show at the visitors center and hike one of the nature trails. It will make for a richer experience when you explore the rest of the park.

Go to the Saguaro National Park website for more information on touring the park. For information on more sights to see along US Route 89, go to the Tucson to Apache Junction Road Trip Guide.

Butterflies and a Digital Dilemna

Last Saturday, son Mathew and I visited the Tucson Botanical Gardens for the first time. I knew there was a Tucson Botanical Gardens, but didn’t know where it was. As it turns out, I’d been by it a number of times, but simply didn’t notice it. For one thing, the sign isn’t very conspicuous. For another, it’s in such a busy and developed area it’s hard to believe anything could grow amongst all the concrete and traffic.

It was well worth the trip. This tiny pocket of beauty was voted America’s Best Secret Garden by Reader’s Digest. It covers only 5 1/2 acres, but is full of interesting themed gardens. It was originally a home, back in the 1920′s. Some of the original buildings were made from adobe on site. We had fun meandering about. A few plants realized it was almost Spring, and were beginning to flower or show signs of life. I’m guessing in a few weeks the gardens will be spectacular.

We spent quite a bit of time in the Butterfly Exhibit. Here’s what I discovered. It was pretty crowded (with people). Almost everyone there was on the hunt–for great butterfly photographs. I got into the spirit of things, despite having a hunch that my photos weren’t going to be so great. Off I went, round and round the enclosure with the camera in front of my eyes, clicking away. Once I’d had my fill of shooting the butterflies, we exited this magical place.

But not before being brushed off with a feather duster by a volunteer, in order to ensure that there weren’t any potential escapees.

What I learned was that my experience was totally different than Mathew’s. He simply wandered about and stood still, taking in the atmosphere and enjoying the butterflies drifting about. I departed, feeling like I’d been in some sort of competition. I missed out on some of the magic due to my digital focus. When I got home and looked at my shots they were as expected–disappointing.

It makes me wonder about people and their cameras and how having that distraction affects their experiences? I say leave the photographing to the professionals. Let them do the work so that the rest of us can enjoy the experience.

Five Outstanding Scenic Drives on US Route 89

National Geographic selected US Route 89 as the #1 Drivers’ Drive in the world in its recently published book, Drives of a Lifetime: 500 of the World’s Most Spectacular Trips. Having driven over 20,000 miles on Highway 89, I couldn’t agree more. I have my favorite sections that I look forward to on our road trips and here is my list of the top five. I selected these places not only because they are fun to drive but also because they are outstanding examples of the variety of landscapes along US 89.

1) Pinal Pioneer Parkway, Arizona

From Oracle Junction north of Tucson to Florence, this 42-mile section of historic US 89 (now AZ 79) is known as the Pinal Pioneer Parkway. Crossing the high Sonoran desert, the road is lined with ancient many-armed saguaro cactus and forests of chain fruit cholla. Black Mountain dominates the view to the east and in the distance are the the Tortilla Mountains. To the south, the peaks of the Santa Catalina Mountains rise to over 9000 feet. Spring and fall are the best times for this drive when wildflowers and cactuses are in bloom. At the mid-point of the drive is a memorial to the cowboy actor, Tom Mix, who died in a car crash nearby in 1940.

See the Nogales to Tucson Road Trip Guide for more points of interest on this section of US Route 89.

2) Oak Creek Canyon, Arizona

Oak Creek flows south from the edge of the Colorado Plateau through Sedona to the Verde River. The 16-mile stretch of historic US 89A (now AZ 89A) from Sedona to the Oak Creek Vista Overlook takes the traveler through a wonderland of creek-side cottonwood and sycamore trees. Oak Creek has cut down through ancient layers of sandstone and limestone forming red and white cliffs that tower above the road. There are a number of parking areas and campgrounds that give access to the creek for hiking and picnicing. The switchbacks at the head of Oak Creek Canyon mark the transition from the lowland desert and the central mountains of Arizona on to the Colorado Plateau.

See the 89A-Prescott to Flagstaff Road Trip Guide for more points of interest on this section of US Route 89.

3) Logan Canyon National Scenic Byway, Utah

Logan Canyon is 40-mile stretch of US Route 89 between Logan in the Cache Valley and Garden City on the shore of Bear Lake. From the Wasatch-Cache National Forest boundary east of Logan, the road climbs steadily alongside the Logan River until it reaches the summit at the Bear Lake overlook. The forest-lined drive offers many places to stop for a picnic or to camp for an extended stay. The canyon is also renowned for its display of brightly colored fall foliage. From the summit, US 89 drops quickly to the shore of Bear Lake.

See the Brigham City to Montpelier Road Trip Guide for more points of interest on this section of US Route 89.

4) Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

For 45 miles US Route 89 lies inside Grand Teton National Park. Ten overlooks and picnic areas line the highway, providing spectacular views of the jagged eastern face of the Teton Range. Each is a photographer’s delight, with the Snake River in the foreground in the southern stretch, and Jackson Lake reflecting the mountains in the north. Although the road is open year-round, the most colorful time to drive it is in the fall when the leaves are turning and the air is crisp and clear.

See the Jackson to Gardiner Road Trip Guide for more points of interest on this section of US Route 89.

5) Kings Hill Scenic Byway, Montana

Passing through the Lewis and Clark National Forest, this 71-mile long section of US 89 winds its way along mountain streams through the Little Belt Mountains. Along the road are many outdoor recreation opportunities from fly fishing in the summer to snowmobiling in the winter. One of the highlights is a short hike to Memorial Falls located about a mile and a half south of the town of Neihart. Sluice Boxes State Park is near the northern end of the scenic byway. This primitive state park contains the remains of mines, a railroad and historic cabins lining Belt Creek through a beautiful canyon carved in limestone. A seven-mile long trail winds through the park giving access to its rich history and spectacular geologic features.

See the White Sulphur Springs to Great Falls Road Trip Guide for more points of interest on this section of US Route 89.

Do you have a favorite scenic drive on US Route 89? Tell your fellow travelers about in the comments section below.

From Mars Colony to Earth Lab-Biosphere2

When Biosphere 2 was completed in 1991, it’s purpose was to simulate conditions in a completely sealed environment such as would be necessary for colonizing Mars. The intention was for crews of Biospherians to live in the glass roofed buildings for two years at a time. They were to be completely self-sustaining without any intervention from the outside. They grew all of their own food and recycled air and water. Unfortunately, shortly after the buildings were sealed, the carbon dioxide levels began to rise and eventually reached dangerous levels. It finally became necessary to pump in oxygen and the grand experiment became a media circus.

In addition to the struggle the Biospherians had with their environment, they also experienced not totally unexpected psychological stresses. Imagine yourself being confined to 3 acres of land with seven other people and being under constant observation for two years. When they finally emerged they did so in two groups of four that weren’t speaking to each other. The producers of the first reality TV show, Big Brother, have admitted that this was the basis for their show.

By 1994 the grand experiment seemed doomed.

But then Ed Bass, the Texas billionaire who provided the funding for the construction of the Biosphere, stepped back in. Eventually, a deal was struck with Columbia University and the mission of the Biosphere shifted from building a Mars colony to a large-scale Earth laboratory. The facility proved to be perfect for modeling various ecosystems. The main structure contains three distinct biomes—a rain forest, an ocean and savanna, and a desert. Teams of scientists have carried out experiments that mimic the effects of increases in carbon dioxide that have contributed to the understanding of these processes in the larger world of Biosphere 1.

The management of the giant greenhouse in the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains north of Tucson, Arizona, has now passed to the University of Arizona. The new emphasis is on understanding water circulation—how it is absorbed, used by plants and evaporates. To do this the building that once house the farm is being converted to contain three giant hillsides where data about water, soil and plants can be collected under very controlled conditions. The project, called the Landscape Evolution Observatory, has been four years in the planning and is expected to be operational by the end of 2011.

The University of Arizona has also made a commitment to using the facility for science education through a program of public lectures, hands-on science experiences and teacher training. Every summer, science teachers from Arizona schools are invited to spend three weeks at the Biosphere to develop teaching tools in the earth sciences which they can take back to their classrooms.

Public guided tours are conducted from 9 am to 4 pm every day of the year except Thanksgiving and Christmas Day. The tour takes visitors through all of the biomes and is led by knowledgable guides. You may even encounter a scientist at work who will be happy to explain the nature of his research.

Biosphere 2 is located six miles east of historic US Route 89, now Oracle Road, on Arizona Route 77. For complete information on visiting Biosphere 2 and a schedule of upcoming events, go to the Biosphere 2 website. For more background, read this article in Discover magazine: Life Under the Bubble.

Biosphere2: A Phenomenon Just Down the Street, Where Science and Creativity Meet

Last week, we were treated to a tour of the Biosphere 2. Considering that we have been living about ten minutes away for nearly two years, I’d say that it’s about time. We can see the Biosphere in the distance when we take walks down our own street. It looks massive, intriguing and oh, so close. And yet it took having out-of-town family visiting to prompt us to finally make the visit. Thanks, Jack and Katie!

We had a fabulous tour. It’s difficult to describe just how large each of the domes is. You’ll just have to go there to see. The whole experience was otherworldly, with these huge buildings nestled just below the Catalina Mountains. I felt like I was in a Jetsons TV show. It is clearly the world of science. And science generally scares me. However, what goes on at the Biosphere was made understandable and interesting even to me by our scientist/tour guides.

Jim’s next blog post will have the nitty gritty details about the why’s and where for’s of the place. Read it and you’ll get a feel for the historical background and descriptions of some of the scientific experimentation that is going on there. I however, was most interested in the way the place feels and looks. There’s some pretty interesting gossip about the group of people who lived there for two years, too. In fact there’s some speculation that the idea for the first reality TV show was a result of the happenings at the Biosphere.

Within one of the huge glass-roofed buildings is a rainforest, an ocean and a desert. A walkway passes through each zone. Water literally drips from the trees in the rain forest. Huge bamboo and all kinds of large leaf vines and strange plants filled this area. It felt a bit like being in a Rousseau painting. It made me want to create my own paintings of the scene.

Moving along, the air dried out somewhat as we entered the ocean area. At one point coral thrived in this “ocean”. Changes in CO2 and other environmental issues caused the death of the coral but it was still impressive to see such a large body of water under a dome in the desert.

In to the desert, I felt right at home. The air was dry and crystal clear. The plants were familiar. The changing humidity in the air really affected the light and appearance of the surroundings. I think this was especially evident because you could traverse from one atmosphere to the next in a few minutes.

For me the most interesting part of the experience was witnessing the way in which these vast spaces are being repurposed. Initially designed to hold a group of people who were to experiment with living in a self-contained structure for several years, the scientists currently involved are looking at ways to use the space to make sense of what is happening to our planet today. It is large enough to create giant controlled experiments. One huge area is being reconfigured into vast series of cinder hills, in order to learn how water percolates through the ground and what happens as it does this. It’s taken four years to put the experiment together. Seeing the work going into this makes it clear how much it takes to reproduce and try to measure what happens all by itself every day all around us. The number of variables to contend with is astounding. There must be constant decision making going on. Just choosing to focus on a particular question and see it through must take a level of cooperation incomprehensible to a head strong artist like me.

Probably my favorite part of the visit (aside from the great picnic lunch) was the building with the giant “lung”. I’m a bit confused about how the lung would have worked but it’s purpose was to balance the pressure within the Biosphere buildings back in the day when they were completely sealed off from outside air. In this low (relatively speaking) dome shaped structure hung this thing from the ceiling. It looked a bit like a giant sea creature. The best part of all were the echoes created in this space. Our guides took great pleasure in making lots of interesting sounds for us. Apparently, musicians have played in the space. I would love to hear how music is transformed in that giant echo chamber.

Native American Music Fest at Casa Grande Ruins

I think of Sunday as my day to laze about the house, so it was with some reluctance that I allowed Jim to talk me into making the one hour drive to the Casa Grande Ruins for the 2011 American Indian Music Fest. The promise of Cheetos and a diet Coke on the drive back was what got me off the couch.

Off we went. This is another lesson in the value of mustering up the energy to try something new. The one hour drive from Oracle is beautiful. You can look at some of the spectacular wild flowers Jim shot last summer along the Pinal Pioneer Highway (historic US Route 89). At this time of the year, there is less overt color, but it’s still a wonderful stretch of mostly undisturbed desert. From Tucson, it’s a 68 mile drive north and from Phoenix, it’s a 56 mile drive south to the Casa Grande Ruins National Monument.

Full disclosure: I’d never been to Casa Grande Ruins before. It can be seen from the road, looming off in the distance, but somehow in my 32 years in Arizona, I’d never taken the time to go there.

Since the parking lot at the monument was being used by Native American artists and crafts people to display and sell their work, a shuttle system had been set up by the town of Coolidge to transport visitors to the Park. It was great. The shuttles arrived every 5 minutes, so virtually no waiting was involved.

When we arrived at the Park, we could hear the music, so we made our way directly to the stage, which was set up adjacent to the ruin. It was an amazing experience to hear the music and see the dancers with the majestic and mysterious ruins as a backdrop.

We were lucky enough to catch the performance by  Estan-Bah–Tony Duncan, Darrin Yazzi, and Jeremy Dancing Bull. I was so taken with Tony Duncan’s flute music that I just had to buy one of his albums. He’s a champion hoop dancer as well, and it was amazing to watch him work his magic, dancing while creating patterns with over a dozen hoops. While he made it look as easy as pie, this is a skill his father began to teach him starting when he was five years old.

The clear air, deep blue sky with the occasional crows flying overhead, the haunting sound of flute, the crowd of people enjoying a unique experience connecting prehistoric and modern Native American cultures together, made this foray into the unknown something I won’t ever forget. And the Cheetos and diet Coke were a great way to end the adventure.

A Night Out in Tucson

We live close to Tucson. A short drive from sleepy Oracle gets us to a vibrant city with plenty of interesting cultural opportunities. All located on US Route 89!

Jim and I had an afternoon and evening on the town a couple of weeks ago. We don’t go to concerts often, but I couldn’t resist booking tickets for the Amos Lee concert at the Rialto Theater.

In order to make the trip into Tucson multipurpose, we decided to stop by Tohono Chul Park to see a couple of art exhibits. Of particular interest was the Family Ties exhibit, which runs through April 3. It was interesting to see the way in which the relationships between husband and wife, father and son, etc. influenced each person’s work. A number of the artists in the show live in Oracle.

From there, to the Tucson Museum of Art, where we planned to see the Lewis and Clark exhibit. It helps to check the calendar. The show was gone and most of the museum was closed for new installations. Since we’re members, we went in anyway and spent a little time roaming around. Sure is a lot of neat stuff in the gift shop. Way too many temptations. Four new exhibits opened simultaneously on February 12th. A great excuse for making the trek downtown again soon to take a look.

Hunger struck, and we proceeded to El Charro, the oldest continuously family run Mexican food establishment in the country. The food is really good, the atmosphere is great and the people watching is fascinating. Always a treat.

When visiting Tucson, it’s well worth checking the Rialto Theater to find out what kind of events are scheduled. There always seems to be something interesting going on there, reasonably priced and bound to be an experience.

On this evening, we decided to cruise by the Rialto to check out the scene before going to get a bit of dessert. Lo and behold, there was already a line at 6:30 (show scheduled to open at 8 pm). So we cashed in the idea of dessert (probably not a bad thing anyway), found parking, got our tickets and got in line. I dare say we were among, if not, the oldest people in line. The doors opened at 7 pm and in we went. As I said, we don’t go to concerts very often. Things change. I have no idea if this is standard or not, but the theater was set up with a handful of chairs in the back and lots of open (standing room) space in the front. Since we’d toughed out the wait, we got seats. Not that most people seemed to want to sit. Lots of toing and frowing of the audience, moving about, jockeying for position, all in a most friendly way.

At last the concert started with the opening act, a musican from Africa, Vusi Mahlesela, with a great voice and interesting things to say about his part in the political scene in South Africa. Then Amos Lee came on stage. I was enthralled. We really do miss out when we don’t see live performances. It’s good to be reminded of this. Kind of like looking at art on the internet versus looking in person. So much is lost in the translation. Anyway, it was a wonderful experience. I felt like I was transported to another place. Of course, I couldn’t leave without buying Mission Bell, Amos Lee’s latest album. I’ll be able to relive the concert, listening to the music while painting up a storm in my studio.

The art scene is Tucson is lively and growing. Check back here often for updates or subscribe to the blog on your RSS reader.

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